A fascinating element of memorable travel is the juxtaposition of the five senses, the collision of the old and the new. Kuala Lumpur delivers in all respects. We paid a visit to KL after living there 16 years earlier. When we lived in Malaysia, it was a country valiantly looking to leap from third world to first world status. In the late 1990s there was deeper cellphone penetration in Malaysia than in the USA; in KL everyone had a ‘handphone.’ On our recent visit, we were able to experience a slightly less frenetic pace of building construction, but still the euphemism prevailed: the national bird is the crane, as in a building crane.
We were able to experience both the cultural significance of Malaysia’s culture and its gracious hospitality.
The Majestic Hotel was a delightful microcosm. Here is an elegant structure, once the pinnacle of luxury in KL.
At its height, the Hotel Majestic was the largest and grandest hotel in KL, unrivalled for its prestige and luxury. Built in 1932 in a blend of neo-classical and art deco styles, the 51 room hotel sat on a commanding hilltop site facing another of KL’s famous landmarks, the Moorish style railway station. For the first time in Malayan history, modern sanitation was introduced in all rooms, with hot and cold water, showers, and long baths in 18 rooms, considered the height of luxury in its day.
By the 1970s, however, the hotel had lost its lustre, giving way to newer, bigger and more luxurious hotels. Saved from demolition by the government, the hotel was designated a heritage building under the Antiquities Act. At the end of 1983, the last guests checked out and the hotel became home to the National Art Gallery until 1998.
When we lived in KL, the Hotel Majestic was there no more. But YTL Hotels was entrusted with the restoration of this national treasure, and we were able to spend several fine days enjoying this gem of a hotel.
The curved driveway and covered Porte Cochere contribute to the sense of grandeur, as do the Roman columns and lush foliage.
The comfortable juxtaposition of the hotel’s regal past and modern renovation continues with Count Basie and Louis Armstrong music piped in to the Colonial Café. There we enjoyed a luxurious meal, with our daughters giggling at menu choices like spotted dick. I often wonder if the crusts cut from the small sandwiches are used for croutons. The colonial era of Malayan planters is evoked with the décor.
The Hotel Majestic is Malaysia’s version of Singapore’s famed Raffles Hotel; both represent their nation’s preeminent luxury colonial hotel despite an influx of sleek modern alternatives.
One of our favorite visits in the city was Jadi Batek Gallery. It is one of the largest batik and handicrafts shops in Kuala Lumpur. We paid a visit and quickly became engrossed in the art of batik. Although my wife and two daughters exceed my artistic skills, all four of us were able to create a memorable piece of art. Styles range across many culturally significant symbols.
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